Termination of CAT5e at the Wall

 
Tools:
(1)   Wire Stripper
(3)   Punchdown Tool
(4)   Labeling Machine		 (2)   Face Plate
 (5)   8-Conductor CAT5e
(6)   Snap-in Blank Module		 Screw Driver
Wire Cutters or Scissors
FLUKE Cable Tester
     

 

       
       The following instructions are for terminating CAT5e into a Wall Jack.  Please follow the instructions closely because there is a reason for every step.  If you already know how to do this then just use this page for reference.  
       Make sure you have all of the tools that you will need.  
       Grab the CAT5e cable and make sure you have a foot or two extra just in case you need to redo the termination again or in the future.  
       Proceed to strip off an inch or two with this handy wire stripping tool.  Be careful not to strip off the inside wires.  We only want the outer Plenum sheath to come off.  
       After stripping off the Sheath, check again to make sure that you didn't cut into any of the individual wires.  This could compromise the electrical integrity or reliability of the wire.  
       Pull the wires apart and then untwist them a little way down but not all the way because you need to maintain the twists as close to the termination as possible.  
       Grab your "8-Conductor CAT5e Connector" and note that there is both a standard A and B.  Always use Standard B here on campus unless otherwise told.  Generally, Standard A is used for crossover connections and we normally don't crossover at the wall jack.  
       Then, simply line up the wires with the color code for Standard B. Grab your "Wire Punch down/Termination Tool" and set it to high impact.  Turn the tool so that the cutting edge is outward to terminate.  This cutting edge will simply cut your wire and punch it down in one step.  
       It is important to try to maintain the twists in the twisted pair(CAT5e) up to the termination point to maintain the grounding properties.  
       Notice the maintaining of twists in the twisted pair wires.  Yours should look like this.  
       Here is an example of a Standard A connection.  Remember, we are terminating Standard B only!  This example doesn't maintain the twists quit as well as it should but it is adequate.  
       Once you have completed all of the punch downs, snap on the "Strain Relief Cap" to ensure a more secure connection.  
       Always label the "Flush Mount Wall Plates" and the cables that go into them.  Labeling the wire too is very important in case the label on the outside is removed.

Unlabeled Wires Are Very Hard to Troubleshoot. 

  
       Next, snap the jack into the faceplate.  Go ahead and coil up the wire and stuff it into the Back Box.  If you have more than 18 inches of wire, pull some of the wire up into the ceiling or wherever the molding goes. Normally you leave anywhere from no slack to 12 inches of slack, but it is always wise to leave 12 inches if there is room so that you can redo the connection.  
       Don't forget to snap in the "Snap-in Blank Module" into the Faceplate.  Then screw the face plate into the Back Box.  
       Last but not least, don't forget to use the FLUKE to test your connection.  You will need to use a (good) jumper from the wall to the FLUKE Remote.  
      Plug the other end of your run into the main unit and then test for connectivity with the WIRE MAP option.  You should get the following if the connection is good.  Remember, we are making a straight through connection.  
     Once you have tested everything and it has passed, labeled both ends of the wires; you are done.